In early 2016 I cycled through Canada's frozen north to the Arctic Sea, in doing so completing the second continent of my bicycle ride around the world. It was a journey dreamt up in the deserts of the Chilean Atacama a year earlier, but realising this dream was to be a far greater challenge than I had ever imagined. As I my latitude grew ever greater and the mercury fell below -30C, I discovered what it truly means to travel alone in this great emptiness.